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This marks squash season and most anticipated time of the year, not least for all the spiced dishes and other hearty meals of autumn. Today's Rajasthani sautéed dish is one I cook often, and the blend of fresh ginger, chilli and jaggery gives it a lovely balance of flavour. This layered rice dish, meanwhile, is loaded with whole spices, long-grain rice and ghee, which provide so much more flavour to the layers of grains and vegetables.

Mushroom and Squash Biryani

A celebration of curry dishes begins around early October, so how perfect to celebrate than with a flavorful, warming, all-in-one-pot biryani? If you like, prepare the spiced vegetable mixture component in advance and layer all components on the day you want to serve.

Preparation 20 min
Cook 2 hr
Yields 4

For the vegetable curry base
4 tbsp ghee, or use butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, slit open lengthways
5cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or kashmiri chilli powder
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cubed
300g button mushrooms, cleaned and halved
400ml vegetable stock, or water
Salt, to taste
2 tbsp chopped coriander, to garnish

For the rice
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

For the biryani
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, soaked in 3 tbsp warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, to serve

First make the curry base. Heat the ghee in a sizable, heavy-based saucepan on a medium heat, add the cumin, bay leaves and clove spices, and fry for a few seconds. Add the sliced onion and sauté, frequently turning, for about half an hour, until tender. When the onions start to brown, transfer half of them to a separate dish and set aside (for later use during the assembly).

Introduce the fresh chilies and ginger to the onions in pan, cook for a minute, then mix in the tomato puree, chili powder, turmeric and coriander, and fry for a minute. Reduce to a gentle flame, blend in the yogurt and simmer for two minutes.

Mix in the pumpkin pieces and mushrooms, stir to coat in the spice mixture, then cook for three minutes. Pour in the liquid, and season to taste. Bring to a boil, then turn down the heat, cover and simmer for about twenty minutes, mixing midway to ensure nothing's stuck to the base of the pot. Sprinkle with fresh cilantro, then take off the stove.

Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Rinse the basmati, then place it in a saucepan with a litre of water and the bay leaves, cardamom pods and salt. Bring to a boil, cook for 10-12 minutes, until three-quarters cooked, then strain.

For assembling the layered dish, put a tablespoon of melted ghee in a oven-safe dish for which you have a secure cover. Ladle in half the spiced vegetables, then top that with some the rice. Sprinkle a portion the saffron water, ginger, mint, ground cardamom and spice blend, then top with the reserved fried onions. Layer with the rest of vegetable curry, then arrange the remaining rice. Top with the remaining clarified butter, saffron liquid, ginger, mint, ground cardamom and spice mix.

Cover with parchment, place lid securely, then cook on the middle shelf of the oven for about fifteen minutes, so the aromas soak into the grains. Remove of the oven, leave to rest, keeping covered, for several minutes, then remove the lid and present with yogurt sauce and salad.

Rajasthani Achari Kaddu (Squash with Pickling Spices Sauté)

The Hindi term "achari" refers to seasoning a dish using pickling spices, and the mix contains mustard, fennel seeds, fenugreek seeds, cumin, hing and kalonji, but they're not used only in pickles. This mixture also features in all manner of curries and stir-fries, such as this one.

Prep 10 min
Cook 30 min
Yields 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
750g squash flesh, or use pumpkin, cubed
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, as needed
1 tbsp jaggery, or substitute with brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Place the mustard, fenugreek and fennel seeds in a mortar, roughly grind, then reserve. Put the cooking oil in a spacious skillet or Indian wok on a medium heat. Introduce the crushed spices and the asafoetida, and sauté, stirring, for a few seconds. Mix in the chopped ginger, fry for a short while, then add the pumpkin pieces, chili powder and turmeric, and fry, stirring, for several additional minutes.

Pour a small amount liquid to the pot, season with salt to taste and heat until bubbling. Place lid, reduce the heat, and leave to cook for 20 minutes, stirring once halfway. Mix in the jaggery, crushing some of the pieces a bit, then incorporate the dried mango, mix thoroughly and present hot with flatbreads or leavened bread.